What is BrocadeBrocade: refers to an embossed cloth class of richly decorative shuttle-woven fabrics, in coloured silks, with or without gold and silver threads. Brocade is typically woven on a draw loom. The ornamental brocading is produced by a supplementary, non-structural, weft in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. This gives the appearance of the weave being embroidered. To the back of the fabric, the threads are not tied-down and are carried as "floaters". |
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Brocatelle - a specific type of medium weight brocade utilizing four or more sets of threads, equally for warp and weft. It has large patterns in high relief which looks embroidered.
Lampas refers to figured fabric with two warps and at least two wefts. The ground warp works with one main weft whilst floats of pattern or brocading wefts establish the pattern, bound by the ends of binding warp usually tabby or twill. A drapery fabric, similar to brocade, and originally an East Indian printed silk. It is now woven with a repp ground and satin-like figure, formed by the warp yarns and a contrasting figure in the weft fabrics. A sumptuous lampas (Lampas Elisabeth inspired from a painting of Elizabeth I is gracing the walls of the London Fabric Company showroom).
Brocatelle is a lampas with a ground weave in satin manufactured with a silk main warp and a main weft, generally in linen. The pattern is obtained with a silk pattern weft, bound in twill by a binding warp. The varying tensions of the warps create a distinctive relief effect in which the areas in satin are raised and visible as a pattern. This fabric came in fashion in the sixteenth century. The cloth has an additional weft thread of cotton, linen or rayon, used to pad the figure. The figures in brocatelle are always in satin weave, combined with other weaves and the background in twill. The designs follow closely the general types of damask, but in brocatelle the pattern stands out in a raised effect.



